Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Letters from...Yellowstone (part 6)

   (text in ENG)

Castle Geyser



   Our last stay in Yellowstone Park was in Old Faithful, rather far away from Mammoth as we had to go south all the way on the outer loop. On the way to Morris Junction, there were two interesting spots, one the Obsidian Cliff – what we hadn´t found. We found a sign to the place explaining that the whole cliff is made of obsidian (a black, shiny stone, produced from lava), but the stone “collectors” had destroyed it, chipping off stones from the cliff… anyway, we hadn´t find it so went to the next attraction, the roaring mountain. 
 
Sheepeater Cliff
   On the way we found a smaller attraction, the Sheepeaters Cliff. This was a huge wall of hexagon shaped granite. In the front there were huge rocks fell down from the wall, and as the cliff is made of hexagon shaped columns, it looked like a giant had knocked over some of these columns. Regarding the sign there, Sheepeater was called the Indian tribe that had lived here before, therefore the name. Nearby the cliff there was a river running, so it was a perfect picnic stop. Suddenly, a squirrel (golden-mantled ground squirrel) had appeared from the rocks. First I thought it was a chipmunk, as it had stripes on its back, but searching on the internet, it turned out it was a squirrel.The squirrel was running around, stopping suddenly (like all squirrels), then running again, standing to his hind feet to look around… it was so cute, I could hardly leave him. 
 
golden-mantled ground squirrel
   But as my husband got eager to go further, we left Sheepeater Cliff and drove further.  Not far from the next attraction, Roaring Mountain, I spotted something on the field that turned out to be a sandhill crane. There were actually two birds, the second (maybe the female?) was a bit shy, hiding behind a smaller bush. A bit further, we spotted some geese grazing from the tall grass near the riverbank (I called them Niels Holgerson Goose, but they are “officially” Canada Goose). 
 
sandhill crane
   Roaring Mountain was easy to spot, especially in the morning when the steam coming from the holes and gaps of the mountain was seen more clearly. It made the mountain look like it was sweating. It is called “roaring”, because sometimes the water leaving the ground makes a hissing sound.
Roaring Mountain
   We stopped at Norris Jct. to see the Norris Geyser Basin and the Artists Paintpot. The Norris Geyser Basin seems to be a quite new discovery and a hotspot for the researchers as the view in the basin changes every year, showing the actual volcanic activity of the area. The people around here (in the western side) were much more than what we´d seen in the eastern area, forest area and it was frustrating to line up for parking. At Norris as well, we had gone there a few days ago, but it was so full, we gave up. This time, we were relatively early (around 9am), so we still found a parking space relatively fast.
   As the basin is quite big, my husband stayed outside in the museum (which, by the way shows the different volcanic activities very picturesque) while I “ran” around the basin. Here, the entrance is very dramatically made, as you first face a huge steam vent. 
the entrance of Norton Geyser Basin
    The basin further is full with holes filled with bubbling water or mud volcano and some more steam vents. Overall the hot water flows across the whole basin, creating small creeks of green, orange, brown colors.
Norton Geyser Basin
    Norris Geyser Basin is huge, there are many trails, but as my husband was waiting for me outside, I just took the smaller loop and went back to meet him in the museum.
   Not counting the smaller stops, we directly went from Norris to Old Faithful. Just as the Mammoth area, Old Faithful was as well rather a touristic spot than a national park – very well organized, nice and neat place. As it was lunchtime, we went to have lunch in the Inn´s buffet. The variation of the food was plenty and the seats were looking directly to the Old Faithful Geyser (it is called so as its eruptions are relatively reliable and on-time; about every 80 minutes or so). After lunch, we stopped at the geyser to see its eruption. As it was “smoking”, I thought it would erupt in any minute, but we had to wait about 20 minutes. Altogether the eruption took a few minutes, so it was like in Disneyland: you line up for hours for a 2 minute ride. The attraction at Old Faithful was like a sport event: there were benches around the geyser and it was completely full when the geyser erupted. This scene was just as interesting as the eruption of the geyser…
The crowd to see Old Faithful Geyser...

...and the show!
    As the geyser-show had finished, the crowd dispersed and we also headed to the reception to check-in. Although it was before 4pm, we could check in our lodge. As the Old Faithful Geyser, the lodges and other shops and restaurants were all in one place here, the parking lot was huge and the place very crowded. Fortunately, there were parking spaces at the lodges, so we didn´t have to carry our luggage.
   Later we looked around the area – there were souvenir shops, restaurants and on the other side of the village, the Old Faithful Inn, a huge, wooden inn. It had about 5 stories and the interior was all wood and logs, it looked beautiful. Unfortunately, not only the building, but its price as well is high, so we stayed in the Lodges, which were just as nice and clean as in any other part of the park. 
inside Old Faithful Inn
    We parked at the Inn to leave for the upper geyser basin. As well, we had only walked a small part of the basin (about 2kms), but it was the most fantastic hike we´d had in the park; the road is full with geysers and hot springs, so with every step you can see something new. First we went to see the Castle Geyser, but we had to take a smaller loop on the road as a bison had selected his spot to rest right next to the trail. The Castle Geyser is the biggest cone geyser in this area erupts the water up to 27meters high for about 20-30 minutes! We were lucky as the eruption just started in a few minutes after we had arrived, although the eruption is in every 10-12 hours. As for me, the cone geysers seem more interesting as the water here erupts in on, powerful jet. 
Castle Geyser
    Walking further we passed the Crested Pool (a 13m deep, turquoise blue pool), Sawmill Geyser as we arrived to the next big attraction, Grand Geyser. As the Grand Geyser is said to be erupted after the Castle Geyser stops, we stopped at the geyser to wait for the eruption. There are signs at the geysers saying the approx. time (in about 2-4 hours span) of the next eruption. The one at Grand Geyser said to be erupted around 3 and 6pm. It was around 4pm, so we waited. Unfortunately, finally we had to wait more than an hour under the hot sun… after about 20 minutes, I went to look around a bit: right next to the Grand Geyser were 2 little springs that started to bubble heavily, which I thought might be a sign for the eruption, but turned out not to be. A bit further was a pool called Belgian spring – regarding to a tour guide, it is called so because a Belgian scientist “discovered” this spring by falling into it when running towards the Castle Geyser. It was before the boardwalks were set up in the park. The pool is nicely blue, but I wonder if this Belgian guy had survived soaking into the hot water… A bit further were a twin-pool, called Liberty Pool.
 
Liberty Pool
   The wait was like waiting for a bus: “shall I wait or shall I go? If I go, it´s for sure that the bus will come in a minute and I won´t have time to run back to it… If I stay…how long do I wait?” Finally we gave up and were about to leave when finally the eruption started. It was huge! Apparently, it is the largest predictable (eruption in every 7-15 hours) geyser; the water reaches 60 meters (!) and lasts for a long, 15 minutes. It was interesting as there is another, smaller geyser (that apparently has the same canal as the Grand Geyser) that started erupting a few minutes after the Grand Geyser. The Grand Geyser was erupting water perpendicularly, while this other geyser shot the jet of water in an angle. As it was bright, shiny day, the water spray created a beautiful rainbow as well. The two geysers and the rainbow altogether looked like a spectacular water show of the nature. 
Grand Geyser
    After the “show” had finished, we continued our way towards the Morning Glory spring. On the way we had seen many other geysers and pools, like the Chromatic Spring, Beauty Pool or the Grotto Geyser. 

Beauty Pool
  We also had seen a beautiful footprint of a bear. A bit later we saw a handwritten sign, informing that there had been sightings of a grizzly with cubs, so it must have been a grizzly footprint. As any other animal, grizzlies as well are the most dangerous when they are with babies. Actually, the next day in Jackson Hole I saw an article in the local newspaper about a bear-attack (the first one in the park in this year); apparently, August is the most dangerous not only because of the cubs but as well because the bears become more anxious and easily irritated as the time is closing up to look for food before the winter.
grizzly footpring
    Morning Glory Spring is like the smaller version of the Grand Prismatic Spring: its colors vary from yellow to deep green. Moreover, as its name says, this spring has a shape of a morning glory as it narrows down from the surface. According to the sign, the spring had been originally turquoise blue in the middle, but due to vandalism (people throwing cans and coins into the spring), the color of the water has changed to green. Even so the spring is beautiful, but it is said that it might never change back its color to its original blue.
Morning Glory Spring
    The trail from Morning Glory Spring continues further, but from this point we headed back to the lodge. The trails are creating loops, so we didn´t have to go back on the same way, we could take another trail with some other more geysers.

   The next day was our last in Yellowstone and our hotel was in Jackson Hole, so we took the whole day to drive back the about 120km road without any rush. This day the only destination was the Grand Prismatic Spring, but as we´d seen the day before, it was completely packed, so we decided to go early in the morning (before checking out) so we would be able to avoid the crowd. It was a bad choice… as the spring is hot and the morning is still cold, we couldn´t see anything from the huge steam coming out from the spring. 
Grand Prismatic Geyser in the morning
   Disappointed we went back to the lodge, packed our stuff, checked out and went back again. (The spring was on the way anyway.) This time the view was better, but to be honest, I was still a bit disappointed. As it can be shown in the postcards, this spring is so huge (about 60ms in the diameter), that it really looks great only from above. I was wondering why the park can´t make an outlook for the spring on the nearby hill, because from the boardwalks, only the massive size of the spring can be experienced, its real beauty can´t be enjoyed fully. Anyway, it was very impressive, but we didn`t stay for long - after taking some pictures we left to head to Jackson Hole.
 
one "leg" of the Grand Prismatic Geyser
   The weather was still beautiful, so we took our time to stop by at the outlooks, especially in Grand Teton National Park. Those sharp rocks of the Grand Teton are just breathtaking; no matter how many times one sees them.
the beautiful Grand Teton National Park
    We arrived to Jackson Hole around noon, so after check out the location of the hotel, we drove around in the downtown. We found a Japanese restaurant and had lunch there – the owner was Japanese so, the food was authentic and delicious. After lunch, we strolled around the downtown; it´s a few blocks, so really easy to walk around. The center is the main square, with antler arches, nice lawns and benches. 
antler arch in the main square
in Jackson Hole
    People were resting in the park with their dogs, or sipping coffee on the terraces of the cafes and restaurants… the town felt very peaceful and overall it had a great atmosphere. The shops around the main square were mainly restaurants and souvenir shops varying from the usual “mass” souvenirs like T-shirts, toys, calendars to hyper-exclusive and expensive clothes or cowboy boots shops. There were some shops with stuffed animals, for me these were the most impressive: from animals living in the surrounding area, like foxes, raccoons or bears, wolves, cougars to exotic African animals like buffalos or antelopes, one could find everything here! 

For more pictures, click here! → Yellowstone (part 6)

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